When we entered Coda Kitchen and Bar, my glasses immediately steamed up, and I couldn’t see. MDP and I had just escaped from the pouring rain, having walked a few blocks from the parking lot. High-tops near the front and the rectangular bar were all but full. The music may have been a little too loud as to be jarring in my somewhat disoriented state. All of that dissipated when the host warmly welcomed us and sat us at a table for two near the back of the restaurant.

Although I had been to Coda many times before, I hadn’t seen the full scope of the space. Set off from the bar and high-top area by a tall wooden divider, the main dining room is a long, medium-width room, with tables for two and four – a modular setup to efficiently accommodate bigger parties – nestled along both sides of the area. Although there were diners on each side of our table, the experience was anything but claustrophobic.

A few minutes after we sat down, a smiling waiter came to our table with water and promptly left, a signal that, unlike other restaurants in the area, Coda wants customers to feel a sense of hospitality instead of communicating they’d like to turn over tables quickly. Having ordered takeout from Coda many times in recent months, we already had a good idea of the lengthy, comprehensive menu spanning two full pages of small, tightly wound font. MDP and I quickly made our selections, and he turned to the handsome leather-bound drink menu to identify a beer on tap.

For appetizers, we ordered the seared scallops and hummus platter. For the seared scallops, there are four to an order – a perfect portion size for two people. The scallops are presented in the context of a few dollops of cauliflower puree and a hearty serving of the cranberry-ginger vinaigrette, which was, for me, the highlight of the dish. While the ginger and garlic flavors of the scallops were slightly muted, the robust, vibrant cranberry-ginger sauce provided a powerful palate impact on its own, eliciting memories of family gatherings and transporting me to another time and place. I’d say the dish is quite successful.

Having ordered the hummus platter for takeout, we knew we were in for a treat. Reader, this is a hummus platter like no other. Set aside your expectations for flaccid celery sticks and too-tough carrot wedges. The Coda hummus platter is a work of art. The long plate was overflowing with the beautiful array of vegetables Coda provides with the hummus. In addition to the expected carrots and pita, they offer raw broccoli, beet slices, pitted Kalamata olives, cucumber sticks, and crisp red pepper pieces. Let’s not forget the main draw: the hummus itself. Have you ever had hummus that had too much tahini, or perhaps not enough? The Coda hummus offers a satisfying, understated flavor that deftly balances the typical hummus ingredients to create much more than a sum of its parts. I could see this appetizer being overlooked in the context of the many available choices. Don’t sleep on it.

For entrees, MDP ordered the slow roasted salmon, while I opted for the hanger steak with chimichurri. The presentation of the salmon was quite breathtaking. The long filet was carefully set atop the quinoa, kale, cauliflower puree, and beets. MDP said the dish was exquisite.

Something that I’ve really come to appreciate about Coda is how willing they are to accommodate substitutions. Typically, the hanger steak is accompanied by wedge fries and sautéed broccoli. I asked for two servings of broccoli in lieu of the fries, and I was happily served my requested sides with no fuss or conversation. The seamless experience of ordering the dish to my preference has made me a loyal customer to Coda even before our most recent outing.

So what about the steak? It was, in a word, divine. Prepared to the temperature I requested, the steak was juicy, tender, like butter. The star of this dish is the outrageously delectable chimichurri. Much like Coda’s well-calibrated hummus, the chimichurri also balances all of its ingredients to create a satisfying, garlic-forward flavor. As for the broccoli, it is delicious. Infused with garlic notes, it’s tender but providing enough of a crisp bite to be ultra-satisfying. Finally, a few roasted tomatoes are served as an accoutrements to the dish and they were surprisingly delicious.

Given how outrageous all of the food was, we had to order dessert, so we opted for the key lime pie. Much like the dinner menu, the dessert menu offers a diverse, comprehensive list to choose from. I found the key lime pie slice they gave us to be much bigger than I would have expected (or seen, such as from the Fox & Falcon who procures their desserts from David Burke’s Dixie Lee Bakery). Creamy, tangy, dense but light at the same time – it was perfect. The graham cracker crust offers a foil to the custard, delivering a soft case for the pie without making it feel too heavy.

I’d rate our experience at Coda a 9/10 overall. In addition, unlike many restaurants (understandably), Coda takes extraordinary care in packing food for takeout. For example, their superlative free range roast chicken is packed in a takeout container that keeps the chicken separate from the sides, and the rich rosemary-garlic gravy is thoughtfully provided in a separate container.

It’s easy to see why Coda has endured in Maplewood Village for so many years, while others have come and gone. Even on a rainy night, the restaurant was humming with happy diners. After our experience last night, I may go as far to say that Coda may be my favorite restaurant in Maplewood.